Monday, August 27, 2012

Life changes

My life has changed a lot in the last eight months. Notably, I've finally made my long-planned move out of Portland and to Hawaii! Not part of the plan: I broke up with Theressa (AKA Tulsey) in February, shortly before she sold her house in March. The breakup with Theressa did not go smoothly, and we haven't been in contact since April. She has moved to Hawaii as well, but other than that I don't know what she's doing.

I spent several months tying up loose ends in Portland, and finally moved to the wet side of the Big Island of Hawaii in August, with my new girlfriend Jasmine. We plan to spend 6-12 months learning about the landbase here before trying to buy a parcel suited to our vision of tribal living on a permaculture homestead with hunting and gathering in public lands.

We haven't had much internet access since we arrived, but I've been keeping notes on our activities and learnings. I'm going to post this introduction and weekly summaries of our experience with retroactive dates to match our actual timeline of living here (I'm writing this at the end of September but will post it with an August date so that my weekly summaries all follow it in logical order!) I hope to take some time to work through my large backlog of planned posts about temperate plants and systems. I'll also begin posting thoughts on tropical food systems and semi-primitive living. Stay tuned!

Friday, August 24, 2012

Crop summary: Darmera peltata - Umbrella Plant or Indian Rhubarb


Years ago, on the Klamath River of northern California, I came across and later identified Darmera peltata, known as Umbrella Plant or Indian Rhubarb. The plant grows on rocks along rivers and in other wet places, putting out long stalks terminating in the center of large roundish leaves.
I felt excited when I learned that you can eat the leaf stalks, but I didn't have a chance to actually try them out until this summer. Plants for a Future says to peel the stalks and eat them raw or cooked. After a little trial and error, I determined that the basal portion of the stem has a lot of fiber, but still a soft, juicy core with a mild flavor and a lot of water. I pulled off the outer full-on fibrous layer, chewed on the inner parts, and wound up with fiber wads which I spat out or swallowed. Towards the top of each stalk, the outer fiber layer hadn't developed yet and I could eat the entire stalk without peeling, a very nice nibble. The very top inch or so of stalk has the same pliability, but tastes fairly bitter. Perhaps cooking would mitigate the bitterness; I didn't try cooking any of the stalks so can't say how that affects the flavor or tenderness.

I wouldn't grow Umbrella Plant in an urban setting with limited clean-water aquatic space; I would instead plant some aquatic or wetland root crops. But I would definitely consider Umbrella Plant for graywater areas where you wouldn't want to eat plant parts in contact with the soil anyway. And if I had a stretch of natural creek or river on larger acreage, I would experiment with it as a water edge plant in rocky areas.

Saturday, June 23, 2012

Crop summary: Saltbush, Atriplex canescens & A. halimus

We tried growing two species of saltbush - Atriplex canescens and A. halimus.  I think I received both from the National Germplasm Repository - definitely A. canescens (PI 508551), but I can't find my records on the A. halimus.  In June of 2009 I wrote a short report-back on the performance of the A. canescens:

Planted out two plants which seemed to establish well in 2008. Tasted the leaves last summer, and a friend and I both found them disgusting, contrary to highly positive reports from permaculture literature. Over the winter, both plants died to the ground, which surprised me. One plant re-sprouted this year and looks healthy, while the other plant never re-sprouted. I expected them to be hardier in our climate. On a positive note, the plant which re-sprouted now makes leaves which taste very good, with the salt-flavor-burst and a pleasant aftertaste.

And an update written from memory June 2012: later in the season the leaves started tasting disgusting again. The following winter killed the remaining plant off for good.

I remember very little about the A. halimus, except that it suffered from the same die-back or die-off problems over the winter(s). If I ever tasted it, it didn't taste good enough for me to have marked it in my memory as worth eating.

Both species should easily handle the coldness of our winters (with A. halimus approaching marginal hardiness at about 10F, but still below our usual coldest temps). However, the Plants for a Future database reports that both plants "are apt to succumb to winter wet when grown on heavy or rich soil" which probably explains our winter failures.

I see a lot of potential for these species, but we would need to figure out how to give them good drainage over the winter, and experiment more to have consistently good tasting leaves. Were I to try them again, I would experiment with soil conditions (try some poor soil instead of just rich garden soil), obtain seeds or preferably cuttings from shrubs known to have tasty leaves, and pay more attention to seasonal effects on the flavor.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

A Good Egg Is Hard To Buy

With our hens in low production over the winters, we regularly resort to buying in some eggs. The quality always disappoints me. Even local, pastured eggs at $6 and $7 a dozen literally pale in comparison to those of our hens! Maybe this is one of those things money can't buy--at least not in commercial quantity?

The picture shows our hen egg at left, and one each of the $6 and $7/dozen eggs at right.  (Plus other standard ingredients of my scrambles: cooking greens, acorn halves, cherry kernels, and skirret root.  Fennel seed is in there but too small to see.  Garlic to be added at the end.)

Thursday, February 09, 2012

Our house sold: Permaculture designed urban homestead


SOLD
4510 NE GOING ST
One-of-a-Kind Permaculture Designed Urban Homestead
 Country Feel In The City 
$224,900
All offers considered
  • 2 bedroom / 1 bath cottage (easy potential for 3rd bedroom) on 8750 sq. ft lot
  • House sits 80 ft off the street providing privacy & 4,000 sq. ft garden in front yard
  • 975 sq. ft Living Space with potential to live comfortably without fossil fuels
  • 345 sq. ft new Sun Room– amazing room with   21 ft wall of windows floor to ceiling!
  • Shaded, rain-proof porch for year-round outdoor living 
  • Garage with washing machine, Carport, Wood Shed, and Utility shed with electricity
  • Passive Solar Heating System (no fossil fuel or electricity to operate)
  • New concrete perimeter foundation & earthquake ties 
  • Well insulated walls, ceiling, & floor joists
  • Double-pane vinyl windows allow lots of natural light
  • Natural gas furnace and range
  • New custom metal roof
  • Chicken coop with laying hens, beehive for bees
  • 600 sq. ft of under-house storage space, including root cellar area
  • 1,000 sq. ft of edible Ecoroof garden
  • 6,850 sq. ft low maintenance, organic, permaculture designed Food Forest providing a family with year-round fruit, berries, nuts, eggs, and honey. 
  • A wonderful loose-knit co-housing community that shares tools, potlucks, and neighborly help
  • Super quiet, low car traffic street
  • 3 blocks to bus line #75, 9 blocks to #72
  • Walk to New Seasons and Alberta Arts District
  • Property taxes for 2010: $1582
4510 NE Going Street, Portland OR 97218
     Contact Tulsey @ 503-288-5331 or norristh@gmail.com
    see our Website http://farmerscrub.blogspot.com

    Photos

    • House pictures of our finished house project.
    • Garden pictures - general pictures of pretty plants
    • Chickens - Pictures of our feathered helpers
    • Harvests - A few photos of harvests, mostly roots
    • Full Yard Views - Roof-top photos showing the changes over the years, from 2006 til present

    Monday, February 06, 2012

    More books for sale

    I've listed a few more books for sale, mostly foraging & ethnobotany. New listings are noted with "NEW" in front of them.

    I also dropped prices on most of the unsold books.

    And last call for plants & seeds; we're probably moving in early March.

    Sunday, February 05, 2012

    Full yard pics, February 2012

    I just posted some winter pictures of the yard from the roof. Not very exciting since most plants are still dormant, but nice to compare to the lush growth of other seasons.

    Greens - Phases of Growth & Winter Snapshot

    Inflection Point

    With lengthening days and unusually abundant winter sunshine, the greens in our yard grow actively again! No longer do I sparingly pick leaves, carefully allocating the non-renewable resource over the weeks of winter gloom. We enter a period of daily growth in the yard evenly balanced with how much we can eat each day. Soon we'll enter the crazy exponential phase of growth where we can't possibly eat it all, and we'll start replacing some of the weedy greens with more deliberate summer staple crops. As we eliminate the greens further out in the yard, we'll turn our attention more and more to the two new dedicated beds of perennial greens I organized over the last couple of months. These beds, of about 100 square feet total, currently lie in the shade of the house, so are growing more slowly than the rest of the yard. In another month they should have enough sunlight to begin vigorous growth, and the shadier conditions will help them through the summer.

    Right now, since each leaf is small to tiny and I have to pick a thousand leaves to fill a bowl, harvesting takes me about 5 minutes per ounce.  That will change soon as leaves get larger, overall growth gets denser, and I spend less time wiping off dirt splashed onto leaves from the ground.

    Current Greens Harvests

    Roughly in descending order of bulk, we're currently harvesting:

    Salad Greens

    • Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)
    • Wintercress (Barbarea verna)
    • Alexanders (Smyrnium olusatrum)
    • Woodland chervil (Anthriscus sylvestris)
    • Purple dead nettle (Lamium purpureum)
    • Nipplewort (Lapsana communis)
    • French sorrel (Rumex acetosa)
    • Scorzonera (Scorzonera hispanica)
    • Allium tops (garlic chives, elephant garlic, egyptian walking onion, bunching onion, other unknown species)
    • Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)
    • Earth chestnut (Bunium bulbocastanum)
    • Popweed (Cardamine something or other)
    • Sheep sorrel (Rumex acetosella)
    • Spearmint (Mentha spicata)
    • Lemon balm (Melissa officinale)
    • Unknown mint
    • Salad burnet (Sanguisorba minor)
    • ground cover bellflower (Campanula poscharskyana)
    • Zebra mallow (Malva sylvestris mauritiana)
    • Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
    • Siberian miner's lettuce (Montia sibirica)
    • Hen and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum)
    Stinging Nettle

    Cooking Greens

    In addition to using most of the same greens as for salads, we're harvesting (again in descending order of bulk):
    • Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica)
    • Tree collard
    • Clove root leaves (Geum urbanum)
    • Radish leaves
    • Chard
    • Kale
    • Beet leaves

    Saturday, February 04, 2012

    Harvest log update, February 2012

    I've updated the harvest log website. I haven't posted about the harvest log since last April. Some unorganized thoughts follow:

    • Our average daily calorie harvest hasn't changed much, still right about 670 calories per day. We still have perhaps 10-20 pounds of honey and maybe 3 pounds of fennel seed which we harvested but haven't weighed and entered into the database yet, which will boost the calories.
    • We've been harvesting fewer ounces of food per day than before, but with similar total calories, meaning we're harvesting more calorie crop - mostly a result of increased honey and egg harvest.
    • None of the fruit trees we've planted yielded last year, except the medlar in heavy shade with a little over 2 pounds of fruit. We did get twice as many cherries from our front yard seedling cherry as we did the previous year. We were a bit surprised and disappointed that the persimmon tree which gave 8 1/2 pounds in 2010 didn't yield in 2011. Our region had poor fruit harvests in general due to weather causing poor pollination. Hopefully this year the fruit trees will really start to produce, after 5 years in the ground!
    • Great yield from our goumi, which gave 12 1/2 pounds.
    • Much better yield from the strawberry patch, which gave 17 pounds in 2011 compared to 6 in 2010. Probably because Tulsey thinned out the plants in winter of 2010/11. The patch is about 80 square feet.
    • Bad raspberry year (11 pounds compared to 31 in 2010), as most of the plants in our original planting died (probably from root rot or some other disease), plus we didn't water the living patches enough to get a good fall harvest.
    • Our english walnut and two or three of our four hazels set some nuts, but all were taken by squirrels and jays. Unfortunately, we didn't eat any squirrels from the yard this year to offset that loss. We did get one tiny chestnut!
    • Our harvest of greens dropped off a lot last year, partly because we were wrapped up in the house project, and partly because we didn't irrigate much in summer and the greens suffered a lot.
    • Fairly large garlic harvest last year, of 18 pounds. (Shallots were a near total failure.) I'd like to see that tripled next year.
    • Sunchoke harvest has dropped by 50% due to making fewer fires, greatly affecting the winter calorie harvest. I think I'm going to break down and just use our gas stove and a sleeping bag (to act as a "haybox") to start cooking the sunchokes.
    • We approximately doubled our fennel seed harvest, to 5 pounds. Very successful calorie crop.
    • More eggs this past year, as the hens we purchased in May 2010 laid heavily from December 2010 through November 2011 before slowing down. We've had a larger flock than would be at all sustainable for this yard, and have been gradually culling the flock for ongoing meat harvest.
    • Harvesting a lot more nettles this winter season than last year. Delicious!
    • Light skirret harvest this year. I think last year I harvested a bunch of plants that had been in the ground 2 or 3 years and got very big, then replanted those crowns. I didn't water the skirret much this past season, and many of them grew in part to full shade. I harvested almost all those plants this winter as 1 year old, relatively scrawny roots. Definitely better to get some sort of multi-year mixture going so you can always harvest older plants.
    • Light mashua & yacon harvests this year, again because of lack of water. Almost all the mashua plants died down in the summer; I didn't expect any roots from them at all, and was pleasantly surprised at how many we did get considering how sad they were.
    • Good oca harvest this year! Two patches did poorly (lack of water again); one patch to the north of one of our persimmon trees in polyculture with yellow asphodel & lily did very well.
    • Nice teaser autumn olive and grape harvests! Neither huge, but larger than the few dozen berries or grapes from last year.
    • Pretty good potato harvest, though still not as good as I'd have liked - lack of water stunted or killed many plants.
    • We ate lots of fuki stalk, and sold or gave away several divisions, barely managing to keep the growth of the patch in check. Great vigorous perennial vegetable.
    • So far our asparagus is a very poorly yielding crop in terms of calories per space it takes up--only 280 calories from maybe 10 plants using maybe 30 square feet? Our solomon's seal gave 2/3 the calories from a similar area but growing in heavy shade on the north wall of our house, under timber bamboo, with lungwort, lovage, and wood sorrel in there as well. And we didn't even harvest as much of the solomon's seal as we could have.

    Friday, February 03, 2012

    Close Encounter

    A couple of nights ago, I returned from the library at dusk.  On the way home from the bus stop, I detoured into the vacant lot 3 doors down from our house.  I decided to sit in the grass under one of the black locust trees and watch the sky and the stars and the moon for a bit.  After maybe 10-15 minutes, I heard a rustling in the blackberry patch to my left, and turned my head to see a big ol' raccoon creep out!  Maybe 8-10' away from me!  He or she walked forward a few steps, sniffed, stared in my direction, walked forward a few more steps, getting within 3-4' of me!  Peered some more in my direction.  Turned to my right and walked in an arc, now maybe 6' out. topped and turned to stare at me again, sniff sniff, until due south of me.  Maybe finally smelled me well enough to figure out my presence...moved at a brisk walk to the orange fence 20' away, and seemed to vanish in the blink of an eye!

    2 minutes later...whole thing over again!  Rustle rustle, emerging raccoon, maybe even a little bigger than the last.  Step step stop peer sniff step step--this time definitely within 3', maybe 2', even closer than the last!  Reared up on hind legs as high as he or she could get.  Then back onto all fours, then moving to my left and backing out a bit. I thought this raccoon maybe peed, but I'm not sure why I thought that--I didn't really hear pee or see anything clearly (and when I went and sniffed the spot later I didn't smell anything.)  Circled around to my right again, with the same step step stop sniff peer step step, pretty much in the same path as the first raccoon.  Same thing again of stopping due south in front of me, and finally moving quickly to the fence; this time I watched carefully and saw the movement as he or she glided under the fence at a low spot in the dirt.

    I waited another 5-10 minutes, but no further activity; I was wondering whether younger adolescent raccoons would all repeat the performance!

    Very very cool; I'm so glad I got to experience that!  I must have lucked out with positioning myself such that the bright street light was more or less behind me when they came out of the thicket, and the wind was coming from the south so not blowing my scent at them.  I was actually scared a little bit; big animals with nasty teeth and claws and all that, oh my!  Definitely worth another twilight stake-out sometime soon...

    Wednesday, February 01, 2012

    New Paul Wheaton video: Sustainable Food - People Per Acre

    I've added this to the "Video and articles about us" perma-link:

    Paul Wheaton Sustainable Food - People Per Acre video (12 minutes) with a lot of footage of me and Tulsey describing our property, our initial expectations for self sufficiency for 3-4 people, and our growing realization of the realities of how many calories we can harvest here. Shot in August 2011.

    Monday, January 30, 2012

    Income from tours & classes

    A friend and potential tribe-mate sent me a video of an Australian permaculture farm which makes most of its cash income from teaching classes and from tours. My friend wrote:
    I know you aren't big on making $ but perhaps once you have a working system in hawaii (or even here) you can have tours which both teach people, inspire people, and maybe make a few dollars per visitor while also inspiring you to keep learning ?

    My reply is meant not as criticism of what others do for income, but as an expression of my own approach:

    I enjoy giving tours and teaching classes, and have hosted dozens here over the years. I don't like organizing them, and have left much of that up to Tulsey or to other folks who bring their class or a permaculture meetup group or whatever.

    I really really dislike the notion of charging for tours. Partly because I dislike engaging in the cash economy in any way, but I have extra resistance to charging for information & knowledge, insubstantial and more or less infinitely reproducable goods. (I recognize that it takes time for someone to reproduce that by writing it down or speaking and presenting it, but I don't think of time as a commodity either.) I feel reasonably happy with my current model of giving information away to anyone who will listen, and having products like plants and books for sale at bargain prices for those who want to spend some money. I *hate* the idea of excluding people based on ability to pay, and I don't feel comfortable with "sliding scale" options because I almost always stay away from such classes myself.

    I'm very concerned about the trend for middle class white people to be buying their way into peak oil / climate change preparation by stockpiling goods, buying land, and buying classes & information.  Giving away my knowledge is the least I can do to help counter that.

    All that said, yeah, if we're hard up for income in Hawaii, I would entertain tours and teaching as part of our income model. But I'd rather not go into the project planning for that.

    Sunday, January 29, 2012

    House heat update & unintended consequences

    Fuel Used To Date

    With the whole house almost completely insulated, we've burned about 38 cubic feet of firewood this winter, a bit less than 1/3 cord.  (One cord of wood is a pile 4' x 8' x 8', or 128 cubic feet.)  We've been keeping the sunspace between about 50-62F, with the north part of the house generally a few degrees cooler during the day, but dropping to the same temps overnight.  We've made a fire every 2 or 3 days on average.  We made at least 1/3 of those fires for guests or for house showings, not because we needed the heat for ourselves.  We're probably on track to use a total of 4/10 a cord of wood.  We scavenge all our wood for free, but market rate is around $150/cord, so we'll use about $60 worth of wood for heating.

    We still have extra heat input from showers (about 3 per week) and from cooking on our gas stove (8 therms=800,000 btus since Oct. 18, or the equivalent of 1/25 cord of wood.) This winter has seemed unusually sunny, so our passive solar heat gain has been higher than in a normal winter.

    Future Steps

    I'm fairly pleased with our relatively low energy consumption this winter, but we're still far short of our original goal of heating the house entirely from on-site resources.  Some pieces we're still missing:

    • Insulation for all house windows, especially sunspace windows, for better overnight heat retention
    • Finish insulating attic
    • Rocket stove instead of normal wood stove, for much greater efficiency in cooking and heating
    • Install our 5 solar hot water panels and run the hot water through the radiant floor tubing
    • Full growth of trees and shrubs for fuel from pruning & coppicing

    Unintended Consequences

    In past years, we used our daily fires through the winter to cook our jerusalem artichokes (aka sunchokes), converting the inulin to digestible sugars after 6-8 hours of pressure cooking. That worked well when we made fires daily. Now, with fires only every 2nd or 3rd day, it takes almost a week to cook the 3 pounds of sunchokes which our pressure cooker can hold. Last winter I ate twice that much per week. We could partially solve this problem with an additional and/or larger pressure cooker.

    Same problem with processing acorns using our preferred hot leaching method. However, since we don't rely on a pressure cooker, we can "scale up" by using multiple pots of large size to leach the acorns, rather than relying on daily fires.

    Similarly, without frequent fires, we're having a much harder time drying nuts, herbs, processed acorn meal, seeds, laundry, wet winter clothes, etc. Now I wish we hadn't sold our solar dehydrator last fall; we could have used it on our sunny winter days when we weren't making fires. If we were staying here longer, we'd probably set up the front porch or carport for initial drying of clothes, moving them inside for final drying as needed. Better yet would be a space protected from rain but exposed to the sun, such as my recent idea of an enclosed greenhouse to the south of our sunspace.

    Friday, January 27, 2012

    House Layout, Features, & Future Projects

    Design Goals

    Before embarking on our house project, we designed the final layout of rooms with a few criteria in mind:

    • Active living space at the south end of the house, to utilize the light & warmth from the sun.
    • Heat the entire house via passive solar with back-up wood stove.
    • Bedrooms at the north end of the house where the reduced light and cooler temperatures don't matter as much.
    • Natural daylighting in all rooms.
    • Add significant storage area for food, preferably unheated space (canned goods, fresh produce, roots, etc)
    • Integrate airlocks/mudrooms to reduce heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer, as well as contain dirt & wet clothes.


    Goal Implementation

    We built the sunspace at the south end of the house as one large room, suitable for a wide variety of active living uses - living room, dining room, party room, play room, study/office, etc. We "planted" our bath tubs to the south of the sunspace for extra heat & light gain in the winter. We planted a black walnut to the SW of the house, and built a grape trellis south of the sunspace for seasonal shade.

    We installed an EPA certified wood stove facing the kitchen for radiant heat gain and comfort from the cheery glow. It heats the sunspace quickly. The sunspace sits 2' below the rest of the house, creating a natural convective loop of heat rising from the sunspace into the rest of the house, for fairly rapid heat distribution.

    We added east windows looking onto the ecoroofs, to allow morning light into the NE bedroom, the pantry, and the sunspace. We added a wavy glass privacy window between the bathroom and the sunspace, since the bathroom had no natural light. The sunspace allows a lot of light into the kitchen and the SW bedroom (which also has a west window.)

    We created a pantry with a 2' path down the middle and shelves lining the walls for efficient storage of lots of goods.

    We didn't build the airlocks, but we left room to add them if desired: one in the sunspace around the back door, and one on the current front porch, enclosing the upper portion of the deck.

    Other Features

    The front porch makes a wonderful hang-out area in the summer, opening to the front garden to the north. Walls block the sun to the east, west, and south, and the ecoroof limits heat gain from above.

    We made it easy to add a third bedroom (or office space) by constructing a single partition wall to turn the northwest portion of the house into a large closed off room.

    We installed a sliding glass door between the sunspace and the kitchen, and of course the southwest bedroom has a closing door, so it's easy to isolate the sunspace for cozy temperatures in the winter without needing to heat the entire house.

    We built nice big stairs from the kitchen to the sunspace, very inviting for people to sit and gather on.

    When we lifted the original house and put a perimeter foundation under it, we wound up with three holes in the foundation wall so the I-beams could lower the house onto the wall. We discovered that in the summer, opening those holes creates a natural air conditioner as cool air from the crawl space flows into the sunspace.

    Future Projects

    If we were staying in this house, we would:

    Add insulating curtains to the sunspace window wall. (And figure out insulation for the other windows in the house.)

    Replace the wood stove with a rocket stove, for dramatic efficiency improvements in heating and cooking.

    Remove the natural gas forced air furnace and associated ductwork in the attic, since we never use it and it wastes a lot of space (usable room space in the southwest bedroom, and insulation space in the attic).

    Install the five hot water solar panels we bought, using them to heat domestic water and to run the excess heat through the radiant tubing under the original house.

    Build a greenhouse on the south side of the sunspace, enclosing the bath tubs with the grapes growing on top. Move the chickens to sleep in the greenhouse.

    Plant more plants on the west wall or west side of the house to create more summer shade while utilizing that growing space (without interfering with its current use as hang-out party space.) Perhaps plant akebia or scarlet runner beans against the house, and/or trees further out trained to high-branching trunks for easy human passage underneath.

    Build a cold cupboard to tap into the cool crawlspace air and pull it up through a small pantry area to keep perishable foods a little cooler in the summer.

    Site Plan

    Here's the house in relation to the property boundaries, showing setbacks for addition of an Accessory Dwelling Unit:

    Wednesday, January 25, 2012

    Neat seeds from Adaptive Seeds

    Since we're trying to sell our house and move to Hawaii any month now, I'm not planning new experimental plantings. But that doesn't stop me from dreaming, and I might as well share that here.

    I just received the 2012 seed catalog from Adaptive Seeds. They have a few interesting perennials and Pacific Northwest (PNW) adapted calorie crops:

    • "Western Front" perennial kale - newly available after last year's unavailability. I bought seeds of this in 2010, but didn't get very many plants well established. Chickens ate the best plants and none wound up overwintering successfully. So I can't vouch for their perennial nature, but they seem to have potential.
    • Withner's White Cornfield Pole Snap Bean - according to Carol Deppe (author of Breed Your Own Vegetable Varieties and The Resilient Gardener), this variety is the best for the PNW and for growing in the cornfield (or in partly shady conditions).
    • Corn varieties recommended by Carol Deppe for the PNW: Abenaki & Mandan Parching Lavender.
    • Amaranth seed varieties: Copperhead (A. cruentus) and Rodale Red Leaf Grain. I still have hopes of getting seed amaranths growing in the yard as self-seeding "grains."
    • Japanese buckwheat - supposed to have larger seeds than the usual cover crop varieties. They say they've planted as late as mid-July and still harvested a crop; maybe this could work as a follow-up to garlic or favas?
    • Elka White Poppy - large seed pods stay sealed instead of scattering their seed. I've always liked the idea of poppies as a staple seed source, with their ability to grow a bit over the winter, but have had no success growing them.
    • Millwright Perennial Rye - bred by Tim Peters.
    • Douglas Triticale - from Tim Peters, shows some perennial regrowth when plants are spaced out well. May not work well with our system of dense plant growth everywhere.
    • Silene inflata - perennial herb with winter-available greens.
    • Oregon Homestead Sweet Meat squash - selected by Carol Deppe for the PNW.

    Friday, December 23, 2011

    Seed sources

    Quick post to share how I've searched in the past for temperate climate seeds of the unusual perennial vegetables & food forest plants. I haven't done much with these for more than a year, but in the past I mainly used two plant search engines:

    Dave's Garden Plant Scout (returns more live plant sources)

    Plant Information Online from the University of Minnesota (returns more seed sources)

    A few years ago when I was most actively seeking seeds, I made a list of everything I wanted, and wrote some scripts to automatically search for each plant at the Dave's Garden Plant Scout site, then parse the results and put them into a spreadsheet for me. Then I went through the spreadsheet manually to order most of my desired seeds from about a dozen companies. You can download the resulting spreadsheet to see what seed companies were useful to me in the past.

    Saturday, December 10, 2011

    My personal vision statement

    After a year and a half of not getting around to it, I finally sat down and wrote up my own vision for tribe. Tulsey read it over and agrees with it. We've been meeting with a few other people with various degrees of commitment to joining us for a trial period, and have talked a little about each other's goals and values and priorities and visions, but we haven't formally developed a group vision statement. So for now this remains my (and perhaps Tulsey's) vision statement:

    "We live and propagate fun, egalitarian, autonomous, sustainable lives
    based on mutual relationships with humans and non-humans. We actively
    disconnect and heal from civilization and its technologies, meeting
    our needs directly from our landbase while giving back more than we
    take. We support our members for life."

    Or in limerick form as:

    A tight knit new tribe came to Puna
    to live out their lives so in tune that
    they'd never need cars or
    to visit the bars so
    they said to civ "Hey there fuck you, yeah!"

    Tuesday, December 06, 2011

    Press & videos including or about me

    I plan to maintain this post with a permalink from the blog's sidebar. If I/we appear in future videos, articles, etc, I'll add them to this post and make a temporary one-off post to let people know about the new addition.

    You can watch a presentation I gave in 2011, via youtube below, or visit Self Sufficiency, Five Years In for other download options.


    Paul Wheaton Sustainable Food - People Per Acre video (12 minutes) with a lot of footage of me and Tulsey describing our property, our initial expectations for self sufficiency for 3-4 people, and our growing realization of the realities of how many calories we can harvest here. Shot in August 2011.



    Podcast (1 hour 11 minutes) with Paul Wheaton interviewing me. We discussed our transformation of the lot into a food forest, our house sale, chicken paddocks, sunchokes, and our reality check with hopes vs actual yields on our urban homestead. Recorded in October 2011.


    Paul Wheaton Dandelions in permaculture video


    Paul Wheaton Mullein video


    Paul Wheaton Comfrey video


    Paul Wheaton Jerusalem artichoke video (11 1/2 minutes) including some footage of me and Tulsey starting at 1:30. Shot in July 2010 and October 2011.


    Paul Wheaton Slug moat video (4 minutes) showing our slug moat with Tulsey & me describing it a bit. Shot in August 2011.


    Paul Wheaton Currant sawfly video (less than 2 minutes) of me describing how I trained our chickens to eat currant sawfly caterpillars. Shot in July 2010.


    Perennial Vegetables article from Portland Tribune, July 9 2009.

    Saturday, December 03, 2011

    Ecoroof Grant Report: Addendum

    See Ecoroof Grant Report for the main write-up. This is an addendum to that post.

    During a site visit from Portland BES staff to see the ecoroofs, Tom Lipton suggested two changes to our ecoroofs:

    Mulching exposed pond liner



    On the garage and carport roofs, we had left about half the pond liner exposed. (See original report for details.) That makes the liner vulnerable to degradation by sunlight, making it last only 20 years instead of the 40+ years expected from a liner covered by soil media. Tom has been experimenting with douglas fir needles as a thin mulch on a light-weight ecoroof of his own, and has been having good success, so he suggested that we apply something similar.

    In some areas we moved soil media over the exposed liner in a very thin layer. In the rest, we applied a thin layer of pine needles or bamboo twigs with leaves. Both materials should decompose slowly, providing an effective sun blocking mulch, without holding water and thus adding excess weight to the roof. They will likely require periodic reapplication as they decompose, though perhaps some of the hardy sedums will eventually colonize the areas and act as permanent cover over the thin layer of organic matter.

    Expanding sunspace roof drainage channel



    We have ~290 ft² of metal roof from the rest of the house draining into the sunspace roof. I created two small channels using 4” diameter drainpipes. Tom mentioned potential problems he'd seen in similar situations in winters when we get alternating freezing and thawing weather, creating ice dams around the drain. He suggested enlarging one of the drain areas to minimize that risk. I removed the drainpipe from the western channel and dug out the soil media to leave just a thin layer for pond liner protection.

    Self-sufficient tropical diet, rough draft

    My original Self sufficient diet post didn't use an awkward enough title, so I've added "tropical" to this attempt. This also has something to do with moving to Hawaii instead of northern California, I suppose. Silliness aside, I present my latest rough sketch based partly on my temperate climate draft and on my observations since then of how much we actually eat of what; and mostly on the plantings suggested by Scott at Evening Rain Farm for a family on two acres in the lowland tropics. I've guessed at space requirements, loosely based on numbers from Scott, from Jeavons' biointensive book, and from random sources online. Mostly by accident, this version has goat milk replacing 80% of the meat included in the temperate version. (I've grown enamored with the idea of goat walking through the jungle, getting a majority of calories from their milk supplemented by hunting & foraging.)

    In the table below, "Cals/day" and "Oz/day" give the number of calories and the number of ounces one person would consume on average each day. "% of diet" gives the daily caloric consumption as a percentage based on 2400 total calories per day. "Qty req" gives the total number of trees, poultry, etc required to feed 10 people 2400 calories each. "Land" gives a rough estimate of how much space would be needed to provide 10 people an annual yield sufficient for 2400 calories/day using this category as a monocrop (not integrated with other foods).
    Food typeCals/day% of dietOz/dayQty req.LandNotes
    Goat milk40016.5%94 full-time does + babiesIntegrated into zones 2&3, and walked through 4&52 1/2 cups milk/person/day
    Goat meat351.5%14? babies per year yielding 260 lbs hanging weight?Integrated into zones 2&3, and walked through 4&5Very unsure of realities of how much goat meat we'll get as a byproduct of keeping does for milk
    Eggs25010.5%650 hens + 4-8 cocksIntegrated into zones 1&23 eggs/person/day. Mostly chickens, some ducks
    Poultry meat401.5%1Culling 50 hens & cocks per yearIntegrated into zones 1&2Based on hatching 50 new eggs each year to replace the 25 oldest layers and then culling 25 young cockerels. We could hatch out more eggs specifically for meat
    Fruit & berries25010.5%~1611-25 trees10,000 ft²Assume 20' to 30' spacing on grid. Assume 1/3 lb/ft²
    Avocado27511.5%812 trees11,000 ft²Assuming 21 lbs/100 ft² and 30' grid spacing
    Coconut30012.5%5~46 trees, tall & dwarf20,000 ft²Uncertain of #s. Assuming 30 lbs per plant, on 21' spacing in square grids
    Bananas1657%950 plants7,200 ft²Assume 12' spacing on grid, and 40 lbs/100 ft²
    Nuts30012.5%215-30 trees11,000 ft²Spacing from 20' to 30' affects # of trees
    Starchy crops30012.5%16 7,000 ft²Assume yield of 1/2 lb/ft². Start with taro, sweet potato, cassava, yam, squash; phase out once tree crops of breadfruit, malabar chestnut, etc start bearing
    Greens401.5%4 1,000 ft²Assume yield of 1 lb/ft², between beds and foraging greens from other parts of the system.
    Honey451.5%.52 hives?10 ft²Assume 60 lbs/honey/hive/year
    Grand total2400100%4.85 lbs 67,200 ft² 
    So the total land required to feed 10 people is about 1.5 acres for the plant portion of the diet in zones 1 and 2 (and maybe 3). I'm making some big assumptions here about being able to fit the chickens into zones 1 and 2 with no additional space required, and bigger assumptions about keeping goats in zones 2 & 3 with goat walking in zones 4 & 5.

    I would expect to fence the chickens and goats out of about 8000 ft² of zone 1 for the greens, berries, and starchy roots.